Belgium is the birthplace of the interesting art of knitting, now called Bruges lace. Its name comes from the name of the town of Bruges, where back in the 16th century, products made from threads crocheted in an unusual way were extremely popular and highly valued. Despite its ancient origins, this technique is quite popular today. We will help you master Bruges lace, and for those who have never held a crochet hook before, we will help you with patterns for beginners.
Sometimes it is confused with Vologda lace, which is actually very similar in appearance. However, the difference is fundamental: the Bruges technique does not use bobbins, but a hook that imitates bobbin ligature.
The construction of a lace pattern is based on the interweaving of a crocheted ribbon-braid and its connections into curls and ornaments. The tape itself is quite simple in execution; the complexity and at the same time uniqueness of the patterns is created by its attachments according to the pattern. It is this fantasy pattern that makes each product exclusive.
Bruges lace knitting technique with patterns
All knitting is based on the combination of three elements: the main tape, the mesh and the motifs.
This is what a small master class looks like, thanks to which we will create Bruges lace:
In the example shown, the main tape-braid is made of 5 treble stitches. It is knitted in two directions, and the number of columns in width and the length of the ribbon can vary according to the model. An arch is made using air loops at the beginning of each row to connect the motifs.
In this technique you can use a wide variety of ribbons:
Connecting motives with job descriptions
In the process of knitting the motifs, the braid-ribbon is connected by bows formed by air loops. The connection is made by air. loop, st. s/n and st. b/n, depending on the design. The parallel arrangement of the braid is achieved by connecting two tapes with identical columns. The divergence of the ribbons is obtained by connecting columns of different heights, this is how we achieve bending of the ribbon:
Complex columns form a grid and fill the void created by knitting the bend of the ribbon:
The ends of the ribbons can be connected in different ways, using a hook or a sewing needle for knitwear, joining with an over-the-edge seam or a loop seam using a hook.
Master class on connection:
We analyze the schemes for beginning craftsmen
The braid, closing in a circle, a square, forms elements that form various patterns. We offer you some patterns of crocheted Bruges lace below:
The Bruges technique allows you to produce amazingly beautiful products - dresses, skirts, blouses, collars, napkins. We offer you a diagram of unusually feminine models from Japanese magazines.
The Bruges technique became widespread in the manufacture of household items. Its similarity with lace and woven bobbins once became the reason for its widespread use in the manufacture of pillows, bedspreads, tablecloths and even items of clothing as decoration. And at all times, Bruges lace has retained the right to personify prosperity, wealth and splendor.
Lace is a beautiful creation of human imagination, striking with its grace and airy delicacy. This type of decorative decoration has long been known in many countries around the world. Thus, in Europe, Italian, Dutch and Irish lace is traditionally valued; in the east, Palestinian lace is considered the most famous, and Russia has become famous throughout the world for its Vologda lace.
The history of Vologda lace dates back to the 17th century, it was then that the first products began to be woven on Vologda land. The development of lace making in European countries gave impetus to the formation of lace making as a craft in Russia. In the twenties of the nineteenth century, lace-making centers were created in landowner estates located near Vologda, in which serf lacemakers weaved openwork trims for the dresses of Moscow and St. Petersburg coquettes, imitating the European fashion of decorating clothes with lace.
After some time, people became interested in lace making not only in landowner workshops, but also among the people, so if at the end of the 19th century about 4 thousand craftswomen were engaged in weaving, then in the first decade of the 20th century there were already more than 40 thousand. After the revolution of 1917, a vocational school teaching weaving was opened in Vologda, and a lace union was created with its own art laboratory.
Until 1940, the craftswomen produced mainly measured lace used for finishing clothes. Subsequently, the workshops began to produce a large number of piece goods, such as napkins, gloves, tablecloths, and lace scarves. In 1960, on the basis of lace workshops, an association was created that produced measured products, napkins, bedspreads, curtains, as well as exclusive exhibition samples created from artistic sketches.
Today Vologda masterpieces are known all over the world. The works of lacemakers have more than once won top awards at prestigious European exhibitions, and in Vologda itself a museum was opened in 2010, where you can get acquainted with unique products of openwork crafts.
Vologda lace patterns
Initially, lace motifs contained a large number of floral patterns. Craftswomen were inspired by living nature, elements of which they transferred in a stylized form to their works. The patterns used in wood carving, which the Russian north is so rich in, as well as decorative elements used in weaving, served as an example for craftswomen.
Over time, the motifs of the ornament changed somewhat. Geometric shapes, triangles, squares, and circular patterns began to appear. After the revolution, the corresponding symbols of the era appear in the products. The most common patterns found in openwork motifs are:
The masters' works are distinguished by smooth lines, clear patterns and an abundance of plant motifs that follow the curves of grass shoots, the contours of petals and foliage. A characteristic feature of Vologda lace is a wide border that forms a pattern, and a thin, almost weightless, mesh background.
All ornaments are made in mirror image and arranged symmetrically. This technique ensures the clarity and severity of the lines, which give the openwork product that unique lightness and smoothness for which Vologda masterpieces are so highly valued all over the world.
Weaving Vologda lace
In recent decades, artistic interest in Vologda openwork craft has been increasing, and many people would like to try their hand at weaving Vologda lace. There are a lot of master classes for beginners on the Internet, but for those who want to get into lace making in more depth, the best thing to do is contact a master of bobbin lace weaving, who will clearly explain all the nuances of this fascinating process.
There is an opinion that making lace with your own hands is a complex and expensive process, but this is not entirely true. Creating patterns requires a lot of time, but in terms of complexity, lace weaving can be classified as average. In order to learn how to weave openwork motifs, it is necessary to prepare special tools and devices, namely:
Creating an openwork masterpiece is, first of all, painstaking work, and it begins with winding threads onto bobbins. This process is slow and requires patience and perseverance. When weaving a product, the craftswoman holds two bobbins in each hand. All work happens by moving these tools in your hands.
Since the process of weaving lace products is quite long, a number of craftswomen create an imitation of Vologda openwork using a crochet hook. Such a product looks elegant, but is valued much less than real lace, the elegance of which is sung in songs.
In addition, these unique products attract many tourists to the Vologda land, coming here to get acquainted with the history of the Russian North and plunge into the atmosphere of creating local masterpieces.
This article is for those who love unusual and original crochet. Bruges lace, the patterns of which are shown here, is a modern version of ancient needlework.
A few words about lace
At first, knitting was a men's craft, but gradually it became a women's craft. Like any handicraft, lace knitting is very calming to the nervous system. Openwork interior items always add coziness to the apartment. Even a small napkin on the coffee table can set the mood for the entire interior. Just don't overdo it. A lace dress or accessories are great for creating feminine looks. To achieve the desired effect and correspond to modern style, openwork must be used, guided by artistic taste and a sense of proportion.
Distinctive features of the Bruges openwork
What is Bruges lace? The diagrams clearly show that this is braid laid out in a beautiful, smooth, rounded pattern. It is also called vilyushka. Belgian lace is almost three hundred years old. Over the course of three centuries, interest in him either faded or flared up again. There are different ways to create fabric using the Bruges lace technique. which you see in front of you on the screen is just one of the options for weaving openwork.
Bruges lace from factory braid
In sewing supply stores you can find braid with oblique weft threads and loops evenly spaced along the edges. It is great for creating modern items that are reminiscent of ancient Bruges lace. Models and diagrams invented by experienced craftsmen are also suitable for working with ready-made, factory-made braid. The diagonal arrangement of the main thread makes the braid elastic, so the thickening on the folds of the pattern is almost not noticeable. You don't have to put this lace under the press to give it more flatness.
Creating a Pattern
From this braid, which is very rarely on sale, lace is created as follows. A simplified sketch of a flower, butterfly, etc. is made with a one-color pencil, the corners are rounded, most of the lines are closed, and now you have exclusive Bruges lace in front of you. The diagram is enlarged to life-size. It is then placed on a soft, elastic surface into which pins can be inserted. The braid is laid and pinned along the drawing line. Those places where the loops touch each other are sewn together. This is done with very thin threads and a needle. The color of the threads should match the color of the braid. It turns out to be a very beautiful canvas. In this way, elegant collars and napkins, that is, small-sized items, are made.
The ancient way of knitting
Bruges lace: napkins, the diagrams of which are presented in this article, items of clothing, are reminiscent of the products of Vologda and Flemish craftswomen who worked with bobbins. They did not knit the braid separately in order to later lay out a pattern from it. The stripes wove, connected and branched, bypassing the pins, directly on the substrate, in accordance with the wide and thin lines of the design applied to it. Currently a popular technique is to crochet a long ribbon with loops on the sides and join it into a pattern right during the knitting process.
Modern way of crochet
The photographs clearly show Bruges lace. The diagrams show several braid options. All of them are very simple to perform. Try tying different ones and choose which one you like best. You are free to treat it like a factory one: tie a long ribbon, place it beautifully on a pattern or on a clothing pattern if you plan to turn the ribbon into a dress, blouse or skirt, and fasten it with a thread, a needle, a thread or a hook. Even easier - pin the braid onto a mannequin with a felt or knitted covering. You will immediately see how much more braid needs to be tied.
Fitting a lace product on the figure
The tape can be laid out taking into account the curves of the body, and then, without creating darts and raised seams, you will achieve a perfect fit on the figure. There is some difficulty in making the sleeve. Here's the advice. On the mannequin, place the neckline taking into account the armhole, as on a dress pattern with a set-in sleeve. Lay out the braid intended for the sleeve on a paper dress, pin it in the form of a pattern, sew it through the loops, fill the gaps with a mesh of air loops or small lace floral motifs. Before connecting to the main part, press down the sleeve with a heavy press so that the folds of the braid become flatter. You cannot wash or steam the product yet, because you will be connecting the sleeve to the front and back with the same threads using chains of air loops crocheted.
When all the details of the dress are ready and connected, it can be subjected to wet-heat treatment without fear of uneven shrinkage. At home, this usually involves washing, starching (if the item is made of cotton) and ironing.
Simple and stylish dress
If you change the pattern, making the armholes square, then the sleeves can be knitted rectangular, without rounding at the edges. With such a shoulder girdle, the dress does not need to be narrowed at the waist. This style is considered classic and universal for those with slender, thin figures. Try tying it up. Technically it is not difficult, it just requires perseverance. If you take a risk and get down to business, you will end up with a stylish and elegant dress. Bruges lace, the diagrams of which are in this article, are ideally suited for such a thing. If it is very translucent, then you can experiment with the choice of underdress-sheath. It is selected to match or contrast.
At one time it was fashionable to wear guipure with a lining. This is an interesting option, but there are few situations where this is appropriate, since the flesh-colored fabric of the lining creates the illusion of a naked body. Choose the thread color that best matches your color type and go for it!
Lace haute couture collections
The collections of many famous designers include models made of lace. This is the white collection of Valentino, and the masterpieces of Jean-Paul Gaultier, and others. Couturiers constantly turn to historical costume and national handicrafts. If you look at each model individually carefully, it becomes obvious that modern fashion is very inclined to combine lace from different eras and different peoples in one dress.
Combination of different types of lace
Bruges lace, crocheted from winding braid, often requires addition in the form of elements of Irish, Venetian, fillet or other lace. Bruges lace gives the products austerity and laconicism. Napkins or tablecloths decorated around the perimeter with stripes of Bruges knitting take on a finished look. An inexperienced knitter will be right if she begins to learn crocheting from the braid from which Bruges lace is made. For beginners, the circuits are not very difficult, because they consist of simple elements.
The first napkin of a beginning needlewoman
For a small, but very cute and elegant napkin, you need to knit 5-7 strips 10-15 cm long; their number may vary depending on the thickness of the threads and the density of knitting. Starting from the second strip, connections should be made using loops. This operation is known to everyone who knows how to knit stitches and loops. The strips of this napkin lie parallel to each other, without folds. The width of the stripes is 4-5 double crochets, plus lifting loops. Decorative arches of the rise consist of 7 air loops. The connection is made like this. You need to knit three chain loops, then make it into an arch, perform three chain loops and then knit a regular row of double crochets. Iron the finished napkin through a wet cloth.
More complex types of work
Having coped with this work, you can take on more complex Bruges lace for beginners. Knitting patterns for curved forks clearly demonstrate that at the bends, three adjacent arches of one strip are fastened with a connecting post. If the fold is a smoother wave, then two adjacent arches are connected.
How else can you use Bruges lace? Schemes of various types of braid make you want to use them for finishing dresses made of linen or cotton fabric, such as matting. You can create an amazingly beautiful set in boho or style.
Bruges lace is laconic in design, the patterns of all the stripes of the braid confirm this, it is very suitable for knitting fashionable avocado bags. They can be made from both natural and synthetic yarn. It is better to take thicker and stronger threads, and a 3-4mm hook.
If you decide to take up knitting, then first determine the place where you will do your needlework. It should be well lit. Light is one of the main conditions for enjoying work and maintaining good vision.
When choosing yarn, give preference to mercerized yarn. The thinner the thread and the smaller the hook number, the more beautiful the lace. Knit with loose loops, do not tighten them. After washing, the item will shrink and become denser. If you knit too tightly, the product will be rough and thick to the touch.
If you knit with colored threads, in order to avoid troubles when washing, check before starting work to see if they are fading. Try not to combine threads of different composition and quality in one product. This mix works well only for people with ideal taste. Cotton lace looks better when starched.
The traditional centers for the production of lace in Europe were historically the cities of Italy: it was from there that, even in the time of Peter the Great, famous craftswomen were hired to pass on their skills. However, Russia also has its own school of lace making. Among the various methods of making openwork patterns, Vologda lace, which is a traditional folk craft in the northern part of the country, is especially distinguished. This method of decorating fabric allows you to create patterns of any complexity, while the interweaving of threads is thin but strong. Let's try to find out what Vologda lace is - a detailed step-by-step master class for beginners will allow you to master the basics of this art.
We knit Vologda lace: a master class for beginner needlewomen
The first information about skilled craftswomen from Vologda dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries, but lace making began to develop in this region as a full-fledged craft about 150 years ago. At this time, there were large lace-making factories here, the finished products from which were sent straight to the capital's stores. Initially, Vologda lace was considered extremely expensive and was used to decorate clothes only for the aristocracy, but later it turned into a truly folk craft. A detailed description of the models of those years allows us to recreate them in our time.
Interest in Vologda lace did not fade away even after the revolution, only the theme of the images changed. Instead of flowers and swans, images of the hammer and sickle and walking workers began to be woven into the patterns. The lace factories produced mainly small piece items: scarves, collars, napkins. A special vocational school was opened in Vologda, specializing exclusively in Vologda lace. In the middle of the 20th century, a new lace factory “Snezhinka” was founded.
What is needed to make Vologda lace:1) A special dense pillow to which the workpiece is pinned. The pillow is traditionally stuffed with hay or wood shavings, however, there are many modern fillers: from the banal padding polyester to various insulation materials for heating mains.
2) Pillowcase. The pillow must have a removable white pillowcase (preferably even several pieces for replacement). This is necessary so that when it comes into contact with the fabric, the snow-white lace does not get dirty and lose its appearance.
3) Hoop. A hoop for Vologda lace is not at all the same as a regular embroidery hoop. They are more like a folding wooden support on which the pillow is placed in front of the lace maker.
4) Bobbins. Unlike ordinary lace, Vologda lace is not crocheted, but using special wooden blocks on which yarn is wound. Bobbins are wooden sticks with a special notch for winding thread. Typically, ten pairs of bobbins are used in the work, however, for experienced craftswomen this number can be much larger. Since bobbins are made from natural material, they require special care.
5) Additional tools - these include scissors, a thin crochet hook and pins (special wooden devices necessary for piercing a pin glued to cardboard).
6) Threads for weaving. Traditionally, white or cream-colored linen threads are used for Vologda lace, but iris or silk yarn can also be used.
7) Pins. Using pins, the threads are attached to the pillow. It is best to use ordinary pins, rather than needles with balls at the ends. This is due to the fact that threads can cling to the round base, which will cause deformation of the final pattern. If you are using pins for the first time, you need to push them all the way into the pillow and then pull them out. This is done in order to clean the metal from possible contaminants.
8) Chip. At their core, these are the lace patterns themselves. It is transferred to paper or tracing paper, and then glued to cardboard. To prevent the design from accidentally staining the white lace, it is better to seal its surface with wide tape.
We make a warm scarf with our own hands using the Vologda lace technique
Beginners have a logical question: which model should they start their acquaintance with the world of Vologda lace? It’s better not to start with complex paintings, but to choose a repeating pattern with a simple ornament. This model could be a small napkin or a narrow scarf.
On specialized forums you can find detailed master classes on making Vologda lace, however, for those who have never dealt with this technique, it may be difficult to understand. It is best to find an experienced craftswoman who will explain the basics of this technique, and only then you can try weaving any patterns in practice.
Video on the topic of the article
For those who have questions when weaving Vologda lace with their own hands, we recommend watching the following video tutorials.
Lace making first originated in Italy and Flanders. In our country, the Vologda region became the center of the craft, from where they were sent to Moscow and St. Petersburg. Products were divided into aristocratic and folk, the former were most often embroidered with a needle or crocheted, and the latter were woven with bobbins. There is a legend that Peter I brought lace to Russia along with 250 lacemakers who taught orphans at the Novodevichy Convent. For everyone who wants to learn how to weave Vologda lace, a master class for beginners will help them quickly master the technique. Here the types of craftsmanship will be analyzed and diagrams with detailed descriptions will be given. And today you can make a scarf with your own hands.
How it's done
Few people know that Vologda lace has a brother - Bruges lace. It originated in Bruges, one of the cities of Belgium, in the 16th century. Outwardly, it is very similar to its domestic counterpart; it differs fundamentally only in the technique of execution - it is performed with a crochet hook.
If you have ever worked with this tool, you will be able to repeat the air pattern without much effort. In the photo you can see a small piece of the pattern that is knitted in two directions. The size and number of columns can be changed if desired.
Folk Russian lace is knitted using bobbins. Features are absolute monotony, color, most often white. The pattern can be measured or pieced. The first ones are made in the form of a tape and are measured in meters, while the second ones are independent works and contain many models.
First you need to buy a roller, this is a soft rotating cylinder that serves as a support for work. You will also need a stand for the roller, bobbin sticks with a thread groove, pins used to secure the threads, and a crochet hook for grip.
A drawing with an exact depiction of the sequence of work is called a skolok.
There are two actions in total - intertwine and weave. Rewind - throw the right bobbin over the left in one hand. Weave - swap two bobbins from different hands, while swapping the right bobbin in the left hand and the left one in the right. It is easy to notice that there are only 4 main actions: a braid, a weave without interleaving the pairs, a weave with the interleaving of all pairs, and a weave with the interleaving of the outer pairs.
First steps
We have prepared a diagram with a detailed description, with which you can understand the basic operating technique. Namely, such a useful thing in the household as a string bag. When all the materials are collected, you need to make a chip. To do this, draw diamonds on drawing paper. The peculiarity of this work is that the base for it is a rectangular piece of polystyrene foam.
Pins are attached to the top, and a pair of bobbins are hung on each pin. We will move from left to right, from top to bottom, as if weaving around our workpiece. Below you can see a sequential photo tutorial.
At the end, you need to attach a handle to the string bag. And so we made the first finished bag with our own hands.
Video on the topic of the article
Jackets, dresses, sweaters and scarves are made using the Vologda lace technique. You can also see many elements for the home in the form of tablecloths, curtains and coasters. To plunge into the world of this fascinating art, we invite you to watch a selection of videos:
